french life

So this weekend, which is my last full weekend will be spent roaming and visually documenting Aix en Provence combined with a bit of cultural excursions to the Atelier de Cezanne and the Musee Granet. Mostly I hope to create a visual recap of fountains and optical shops, which litter the streets like spit in China town (NYC). I will also have a look out of hue variations in blue shutters and salmon/yellow building facades. As the Greeks, the French love blue shutters. The former keep an uniform color while the French actually explore hues. I will surely post "noteworthy" images. My biggest treat tomorrow am would be strolling out of bed and going to Madame Bechard's for the non-existent Almond Croissants so ubiquitous in NYC. She is famed to be quite difficult but the best in Aix en Provence for pastries.

Indeed, it has not been pastries but bread ruling my life here. I ate a full loaf in less than 72 hours all by myself, 5 slices in one sitting. As this is a touristy town meals have been lackluster and bread has been the saving grace. I love the herbs sprinkled all over and the grains still evident in loafs. I have had five full meals (impressive for someone that has all meals out of the home in NYC) in restaurants: Lebanese, Vietnamese and French. The best meal was in a outdoor plaza just steps from my flat, under trees just like this one L'Epicerie where I'm sitting sipping on some Rose. At Le Cantine, I had the Carpaccio as they had run out of the Steak Tartare. They pilled high rocket arugula with parmeggiano, olive oil, almonds and sun...tomatoes. It was simple and magnificent, in this case NO BREAD needed. The dessert was another thing, the much awaited Tarte de Frais was store bought pastry that it was so hard 1/4 of it jumped off the plate and I was unable to finish it as not to simply pick it up and put it in my mouth. Not proper behavior for the French, that as I looked over saw a Lady pick up a cold cut with such delicacy and detail it was mouth watering...she rolled it languidly in her finger and seductively and patiently put it in her mouth. It is the same way my friends (FRench) showed me how to eat a dessert with a small spoon, backwards and lingering.

It is this simplicity of the French that is so alluring, simple yet refined. As the shops went on sale (massive!) July 6th, the only sign that these women are human was their intensity in their eyes, focused and determined to SHOP. Some might viewed it as a bit crazed, carrying multiple bags in both hands. A scene similar to a Vera Wang bridal sale. Other than that, they litter--- the streets in timeless garbs, simple sheaths, classic colors, understated as opposite of their male counterparts with super elongated/pointy shoes. No designer labels, no excessive accessorizing. Hair color if it exists, it is not evident. All hues are natural and complimentary. Simple elegance.

Last night I had a classic Steak Tartare @ La Mado that was simply delicious. I often forget it is a quite heavy meal specially @ 9pm. A glass of Bordeaux accompanied me and of to bed I went.